Burberry’s push to reinvent itself, starring Oscar winner Olivia Colman and Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher in celebration of its British heritage and signature trench coats, faces a fresh test on Monday as it reveals its newest designs at London Fashion Week.

CEO Joshua Schulman, an American, has revamped Burberry’s marketing to present a more globally relatable version of Britishness, criticizing his predecessor’s product and pricing choices for featuring a “niche aesthetic” that strayed from recognizable Burberry designs, according to Reuters.

“It felt very high fashion and quite edgy, and the collections that you’re seeing now are very classic, very clear heritage designs,” said Anna Farmbrough, portfolio manager at Ninety One, which holds Burberry shares.

Since Schulman became CEO in July last year, creative director Daniel Lee’s role has shifted, with design now more closely aligned with the commercial teams. Speculation has grown over how long Lee, appointed in September 2022, will continue in the position.

“Josh has normalised the relationship between a chief executive and a creative director,” said Jeremy Smith, UK equities portfolio manager at Columbia Threadneedle in London.

“It’s obviously important to Burberry who their creative director is, but it shouldn’t define the business.”

Under Schulman, Burberry has launched social media campaigns spotlighting celebrities closely tied to British identity, such as Olivia Colman, who portrayed Queen Elizabeth II in Netflix’s The Crown, while drawing on cultural touchstones like the Glastonbury music festival.

The brand has also reached the political spotlight: when Air Force One landed in London on Tuesday night for United States President Donald Trump’s state visit, Melania Trump stepped off the plane wearing a Burberry trench coat.